But as a self-described, occasionally-absent-minded, modern man, the value proposition for me is simple: I keep a pair in my dresser, my suitcase, my briefcase, glove compartment, gym locker and at the office.

These silk knot cufflings are designed by Jonathon Boos; the inventer of the magnetic collar stay. They come in many different colors, styles and collections.

Cost: $15 - $18 - Buy Now

Step 1: The Walk Around
During the intial walk around look for any obvious ding, dents, scratches on all of the door panels, trunk lid and hood as this is a good sign of how well the car has been treated. The car should have all of the appropriate badging and emblems (BMW hood and trunk emblems are known to crack and peal apart so this is not by any means a deal breaker - both can be replaced for $30).

Tip: Getting down to “car level” will help you see the dings easier and how well the body panels line up. 

Next look at the tires tread depth and wear pattern (uneven wear is a sign of alignment issues), make sure they are all the same brand (typically the rear tires are larger than the fronts) while there, note the amount of ”Curb Rash” on the wheels (excessive curb rash is usually a sign of a bad driver).

Step 2: Interior Inspection
With the key in hand lock and unlock the doors several times then pop the trunk. Once you see everything works as is should open the door and take a deep breath - a car that has a strong air freshener odor may be sign of a smoker car or the owner is trying to cover up a foul odor.

Before you start the engine turn the ignition key to the on position and note the time before the next maintenance is due (located below the speedometer/tachometer). If you see a negative sign then a number its a good indication the car was not properly maintained and should be avoided regardless of how clean the oil appears.

Let’s assume the car has been serviced properly now it’s time to start the car. Let the car warm up while you checkout the interior. Start your scan from left to right and make sure every switch works as it should.

• Side Mirrors - Check operation of both side mirrors (left position/reverse gear auto adjusts passenger mirror)
• Lights - headlights (high/low), fog lights, directionals, brake/tail and backup
• Wipers - Delay, stage 1, stage 2 (condition of blades)
• Steering wheel controls - Should not stick (usually volume control)
• Tilt/Telescopic steering wheel - Manual or powered check full range of movement
• Rear View Mirror - Any dark spots is a sign of a defective mirror and needs to be replaced
• Vents - Check full range
• Radio - Check Pixels (BMW volume control on the head unit are known to fail)
• CD Player/Changer - Comes with CD cartridge - loads easily and plays uninterrupted
• Temp controls - Check full temp range
• Glove box - Check for user manual/fuse box label/ BMW flashlight
• Power seats - Test full range in every direction.
• Center Console - cup holders, coin holder, arm rest/storage compartment
• Power Windows - One touch window switches are known to fail. Check each window from the center console then on the doors.
• Central locking - Close all the doors then confirm the central locking system is operational
• Sunroof - (radio off) listen for any binding (if the sunroof slows down at any point it could be a sign of a bent rail or another problem. BMW sunroofs cost a lot of money to replace so its important to cycle the sunroof 10 times stopping it midway and then continuing until you are satisfied it works smoothly and consistently.
• Rear Sunshade - Optional on most higher end BMW models, these are known to bind up and quit working simply due to lack of use. A little white lithium grease usually fixes the problem
• Rear seat center console - Check to see if the cup holders work (slide out) and the pass through opens.
• First aid kit - most of the time the contents are tool old to use anyway
• Tools - located under the trunk lid (Screwdriver, adjustable wrench, tow hook, wheel locks(optional))

Approximate cost of common replacement items: 

1. Cup holder - $40
2. Power seat controls (with or without memory) - $100
3. Eye glass case - $35
4. Ash tray (front/rear) - $40/$50
5. Floor mats - $90
6. Gear Shift nob - $50 -$80 (leather/wood)

For  a couple hundred dollars you can give new life to just about any tired looking BMW interior

Now it’s time to look under the hood. Open the oil filler cap and look for any sludge or rust as this an indication of a car that either was poorly maintained or not drive enough to burn off the condensation that build up in the engine. Pull the dipsticks and inspect the oil and transmission fluid (both fluids should be clear of dirt and not smell burnt). Ask if the overflow bottle has been replaced (they are defective and are know to break). If the owner does not know look at the hood liner for signs of the overflow bottle explosion - it will look brownish. 

Next pop open the air box and interior filters and note the condition. If the are full of leaves and debris it may indicate the car was not maintained properly. Also check for leaves and debris between the AC condenser and the radiator as this can cause the car to run hot or overheat putting stress on every component of the drive-line (if you don’t have the tools to remove the top plastic cover make sure it is covered during the final pre-purchase inspection.

Lastly take a close look at the front grills from the inside of the hood. Make sure all of the clips and tabs are in place and none are broken. Missing tabs may indicate the car has been in an accident (more on that in future articles/videos).

Step 3 Test Drive
First shut off the AC and radio and keep the windows up. This will allow you to hear any squeaks, rattles and other noises that may be an indication of trouble. All BMW series are known for having poor lower control arm bushings (BMW knows they are defective, but they usually don’t wear out until about 60K miles so they simply don’t have to fix the issue). A clunking sound when driving over a bump is a good indication they will need to be replaced. Prices vary, but figure around $500-$700. Any humming noise is usually from a tire with little or no tread left or in rare cases just a poor quality tire. Steering wheel shake can be an indication of a bent wheel, out of balance or flat spotted tire or other suspension issuses

Don’t be shy when performing a test drive (let the owner know you of your intentions). Several hard acceleration through the gears will light up any “service engine soon” codes that were recently erased prior to your test drive.

Hard braking will reveal anything wrong with the ABS system/rotors/calipers. The car should brake straight and hard. If you feel the car pull to one side it could be a sign of a bad caliper. If you feel a pulsation during light breaking it’s most likely a sign of a warped rotor (Note: BMW rotors are not supposed to be cut and should be replaced).

If the car accelerates without hesitation, brakes straight and handles well overall it’s now time to give the car another once over. While driving put the windows down and listen for rattles in the doors as this could be a sign of a power window issues.

Step 4 Professional Prepurchase Inspection
No matter how thorough you are with your initial inspection nothing compares to having a professional perform their checks to ensure the safety and reliability of your next car. It may cost around $75 - $100, but trust me it’s money well spent. The mechanic will be able to get the car on a lift and check for leaks, suspension defects, previous repairs, brake pad wear, warped wheels (BMW wheels are very weak and most are bent from pot holes*), leaks and any other potential problems.

*BMW wheels can be trued out for around $50 a wheel by your local wheel and tire shop as compared to $350 for a new one from BMW or Ebay.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful and it has given you a little more confidence to go out and get that BMW you’ve always wanted. 

Please post or email me your questions and I will be happy to answer them

Buying a used car is time consuming and sometimes frustrating experience, but it doesn’t have to be. There are several steps that I will outline for you that will make your selection, search, inspection and purchase as easy as ordering you favorite cup of coffee.

Below you will see a brief description of each stage of buying a used car. Over the next couple of weeks I will breakdown each stage even further and attempt to put all of this content into a video presentation followed by weekly car inspection tutorials for some of the most popular used cars on the market today.  

Step 1: Identify reason for purchase
You have to identify the reason(s) for deciding to buy a new car and write them down. Typically we get needs and wants comingled to justify a purchase that is slightly out of our budget, but more on that later.

Your list should contain reasons like: need better gas mileage, more room for new family member, work truck, recently totaled in an accident, new driver in the family or simply to keep up with the Jones’s, it doesn’t matter as long as you are honest.

Step 2 Budget
This step is crucial if you do not want to be “car poor” meaning all of your extra fun, food, rent money goes into paying for a car you shouldn’t have purchased in the first place. If you plan on paying cash then simply pick a number that you can absolutely afford and do not go over it by even 1 penny.

If you plan on financing then you should go to your bank (tip: Credit Unions offer some of the best rates) or a bank that specializes in writing auto loans to find out what kind of interest rate you can expect. Now it is a matter of using a payment calculator to find how much you can spend and still be comfortable making your monthly payment.

Step 3 Choosing a Model
Going back to step one for a second let’s assume you need a car with great gas mileage (in this day an age who doesn’t). The first thing you want to do is compare the top 10 or 15 models by MPG alone by using a site like Edmunds to view them side by side (do the same for any other reason). Next narrow your list by selecting the ones that have the highest durability and consumer rating. Hopefully at this point you will have 3 to 4 models to choose from that not only meet your gas mileage/styling requirement, but are still within your budget.

Next check with your insurance company to see if there is any extra charges any of the vehicles on your list. It is always a good idea to figure insurance as part of your monthly payment ($1500 insurance premium = an extra $125 per month you are going to have to spend as part of your fixed costs).

Tip: Don’t be afraid to shop around for better rates!

It’s now time to decide if a warranty is important to you? Many Honda models even though they get great gas mileage and have high marks for consumer satisfaction the warranty typically ends 3 years or 36K miles which makes you kind of wonder if the car is so reliable why offer such a limited warranty?

Anyway my point is that if you are one of those people who like the idea of not having to worry about coming out of pocket for any unforseen mechanical issues then choosing a company that offers a 50K or 100k mile warranty might be worth a look.

Obviously a car that is out of warranty can be purchased for much less. That savings can be used to purchase an extended warranty (please note: not all extended warranties are the same and can differ greatly in price, coverage, mileage allowance, time and transferability - I will explain more on that later).

Step 4 Begin Your Search
Where to look? I always suggest performing a local search on (1 Craigslist.com  (2 Autotrader.com  (3 Cars.com  (4 Vehix.com and even (5 Google.com has a new Beta auto search feature.

As a rule of thumb you are more likely to get a better “price” when purchasing a vehicle from an individual than a dealer and that is mostly due to the cost associated with reconditioning and marketing.  Note that I said price and not deal. These two ideals seldom go hand and hand - let me explain.

The private seller can offer you a better price because they are not going to replace the tires/brakes or anything else that a dealer would have to replace to make the car roadworthy. Buying a used car from a dealer is all about convenience. You can take the car on a test drive (sometimes even overnight), there is no need to schedule a meeting and you can come back as many times as you like.

On the other hand if you know what to look for on your initial inspection and the seller agrees to let you take the car to be inspected by your mechanic then you may wind up saving even more money by having the work done yourself. You just have to ask yourself the question - “How much is my time worth”. Typically you can save a couple of thousand dollars by doing the legwork yourself.

Step 5 Finalizing the Purchase
Once you have decided on a car and have your cash or bank note in hand, it is time to close the deal. If you are purchasing a vehicle from a dealer (see below for private seller requirements) you will need your drivers license (if more than one individual is going to be listed as an owner both need to be present to sign the docs), proof of insurance, SS# and payment.

The dealer will prepare all of the DMV, Affidavit of Sale, Buyers Order and Power of Attorney forms for you as part of their Title/Documentation fee. Once you have signed the paperwork and submitted payment you will be given a temporary tag until your new plates have arrived at the dealership. From there you can either have them mailed or you can pick them up.

If you are purchasing a car from an individual then you will need to use an official bill of sale (forms vary from state to state so either visit your local DMV or download the form).

Tip: Make sure when looking over the title that there isn’t a lien placed on the vehicle. All liens must be paid off before you complete the transaction.

If the title is clear then simply have the seller fill out his or hers information and sign the bottom. Next enter the actual mileage where indicated. If the mileage is not correct or exceeds the mechanical limits (not applicable to newer cars) you have to check the appropriate box that corresponds to that error. I would be a little wary of a car that did not indicate the actual mileage. After all how are you supposed to put a price on a vehicle without knowing the true mileage?

Now with bill of sale and title in hand you can head down to complete the registration process. It’s a good idea to download the registration forms and have them filled out and ready to go before arriving at the DMV. If you are unfamiliar on what to do wait and ask a DMV agent.

More to come…..

Is it the estimated 600hp supercharged 7.0 litre V8 or the huge Brembo brakes or the new carbon-fiber roof? Umm I don’t care if the wheels are the same as a Ferrari Enzo’s or the rotors are the same as a Bugatti Veyron’s it still does not justify the price.

Now don’t get me wrong the car looks great and if I had an extra 100k lying around I would definitely try and get my hands on what is sure to be a collectible some day. But since I don’t have the cash I would simply opted for a used 2005 and maybe add a set of deep breathing Edelbrock heads, bigger injectors, headers, tuned exhaust and throw in a nice Kenny Bell super charger for good measure  just to make sure I’m well over the 600HP mark

The whole set up (minus the car) would cost around $8,000(I would do all of the work) and you have essentially the same performance.

I know I didn’t mention upgrading the brakes, but seriously if you are not going to road race the thing, stock brakes are more than adequate.

Audi first attempt at a mid engine sport car designed to directly compete with the Ferraris, Lamborghini’s and Porsches of the world has Bugatti esque styling cues combined with 420 hp all wheel drive capability could possibly make it a true contender for the top spot within its class.

I really like the look of the car although the exhaust note is somewhat disappointing. It lacks neither the sweet high pitch sound of the Ferraris and Lambos nor the throaty, pure adrenaline pumping sound of the Porsche twin turbo at full song. Who knows maybe Flowmaster will make a kit for the R8

For the money, I would still have to buy the GT3 or twin turbo since the maintenance bills on Ferraris and Lambo’s can reach upwards of $30k for your mandatory 30k mile service (it’s no wonder you see a ton of Ferraris for sale with 10-15k miles on them). I know if you can afford to buy a Ferrari you are not worried about paying an extra $1.00 per mile, but it just doesn’t seem to be worth it when you can drive the crap out of a GT3 and not have to worry about ridiculously overpriced maintenance bills (well they are still overpriced, but comparatively speaking of course Porsches require the least maintenance of the three).

R8 vs GT3 . Top Gear

Who do you think is going to win?

Yes that’s right BMW is introducing a new model with two variations 128i and 135i. They are set to be available in the US in the spring of 08.

First is the 128i, it will be powered by the standard 3.0-litre, 230 horsepower inline 6 found in many of BMW’s current cars. Zero to 60 times should be around 6.5 secs (depends on the weight)

Next is the 135i, it is powered by a 3.0-litre 300 horsepower twin turbocharged that.. get this - produces 300ft lbs of torque as low as 1400 rpms. Zero to 62mph is reached in 5.3 seconds (not bad). With a little fan tweaking and exhaust modding I’m sure it could join the 4 sec club.

The look of the car is supposed to bring you back to the days of the “2002″ model (not the year =;^), but looks a lot more like an American muscle car. Take the wheels off and you have a cross between a mustang and charger (albiet smaller).

Full press release here